![]() There would be no potential coolant leaks, or loss, and far less risk of burning yourself while working on a hot engine. Keep in mind, that if we, or any other manufacturer, as well as the OEM’s were able to record surface temp to give you an accurate temperature reading, we would all save a lot of money, and make installing a gauge much less messy, and easier to do. Your core temp may be as much as 220, or as low as 200, but still much more than what the gauge shows. If you get a reading of 195 with your temperature gun, while the gauge reads 160, then knowing now that the surface temperature is lower than core temp, you can safely assume that the gauge is indeed wrong. Here is an example: If the gauge is reading 160, but you suspect the engine is running hotter, you may take temperature samples with your temperature gun from the surface of the thermostat housing, intake manifold (where a water jacket is present), and sender location. ![]() So, when is it a good idea to trust the temperature gun? If you suspect the gauge of reading low, then that changes everything. So, if your gauge reads 195 and you point & shoot and get a reading of 185, you can safely assume that you are seeing a reasonable, and realistic comparison. ![]() This depends on the efficiency of the component being shot with the temperature gun to dissipate heat. A typical temperature difference would be between 5 and 25 degrees, between the gauge in question and the temperature gun. The surface area of what you are measuring has a job to do, which is to dissipate heat. Surface temp will always be cooler than the coolant inside the engine, or otherwise known as engine “core temp”. Here is why: Your temperature gun measures surface temperature, and has no magical ability to measure the coolant temp through the aluminum, or cast iron component. This is to be used as a basic comparison, not as an exact. It can also be used to compare a temperature reading with, with your gauge, HOWEVER…. These are quite the handy little devises, that work very well for checking the surface temperature of nearly anything, ranging from your header pipe, to your favorite cold drink. Comparing to the ever-growing, popular temperature gun (laser pointer, infrared gun, etc.). We are going to start off with one of today’s biggest misunderstandings when it comes to checking water temperature…. The worst is a brass tee, don't use that, it'll eventually fatigue and crack.Sometimes there comes a time when you want to check the accuracy of your temp gauge, or maybe you simply do not believe the temperature that is being displayed. I wouldn't consider the plate ghetto or anything. The plate is milled flat at that area and everything tightened up properly. If you look just under the base of the temp sender there's a terminal around the sender to ground. The oil pressure gauge using the stepper motor doesn't require the sender to be grounded to work correctly however the oil temp sensor does. The oil pressure one is nice with a stepper motor and everything. I told Autometer what I wanted and the base gauge they used was a 90 sweep for oil temp, they didn't offer a 270 sweep with the lighting circuit separate. A lot of gauges have a common ground for the lights and gauge. To get the lights to work correctly the lighting circuit has to be entirely separate from gauge power. My gauges were from the Autometer custom shop to have a carbon fiber background, red pointer, etc to match the factory gauges. I've had some other posts describing the lights I used and how they have to be connected to work right. I usually have everything barely illuminated. I don't run my interior lights that bright at all, just was showing how the LED's I'm using match factory. Max oil temps I've seen have been maybe 225F or so, normally they're around 195 - 210. I have to drive about 10-15 min before oil gets to about 180. In regards to oil temp following coolant, you'll find coolant warms up way quicker than oil. For what it's worth I've got one of their plates on a tractor and on a Polaris Ranger Diesel to run a remote filter, one since 2010 and the other since 2011, no problems there either. Pretty hard to screw up a chunk of aluminum and an o-ring. I've been running the glowshift plate for right at 90k with no issues, I put it on at 15k and I'm at 105k now.
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